Friday 23 August
Awake at 0300 up at 0700 for home brewed coffee, boiled egg and pan toasted baguette consumed while we watch the window cleaners outside repelling down our apartment block. So, a slow start today as we plan a visit to Montparnasse Market and the lovely area of Montparnasse. It's another stunning day in Paris with clear blue skies, crisp dry air and the promise of a 29 degree afternoon. While we were walking along Boulevard Saint Jaques a nun came up to us and said hello in French. Obviously she recognized Flashy as a lapsed Catholic and perhaps Lady P looked like a chic Frenchy , so we discussed how nice it was to be in Paris in August while most of the Parisians were on holidays. We have had no problems finding restaurants, bars and shops open but the lack of traffic and the silence in the neighbourhoods is both soothing and disquieting at the same time. Anyway on to Montparnasse we walk, only to find the market shut. Not to worry a cafe au lait and cafe noir works for us. Next we went to the top of Montparnasse Tower and at 56 stories you get a perfect 360 degree view of Paris. This relatively undiscovered rooftop mean't no queues and for only €20 each was our contribution to the tourist economy.
Once again at street level, Flashy finally figures that in the northern hemisphere, half way between the 12 on you watch and the sun is south not North. He is now dangerously back in navigator mode. It's now 1 pm and we need lunch. Lady P leads us to an old favourite of hers from seven years ago and luckily we join about 20 locals at restaurant Au Pied du Fouet crammed into a space that would not be allowed in Australia. A complimentary rose at the bar while our upstairs table by the window is cleared. Now those stairs- Flashy made it up on hands and knees and had to crouch to sit as the ceiling was so low, but the food was magnificent an so traditionally French. A vegetable terrine with prunes and a marinated mackerel entree was followed by confit of duck, a cheese plate and tart tartine to finish. The bottle of Bordeaux red was pretty good as well. I forgot to mention that we caught the barman ‘making’ the rose wine by mixing a sauv blanc with cassis. Not even a shrug when Flashy says oi mate! He just says ‘French technique monsieur’ Anyway it tasted great. I might just give it a go when I get back. A brilliant lunch with neighbourhood locals and all for €61.
A monstrous walk was needed, so we headed for Galleries Lafayette, although this time partly by Metro. A successful day of shopping. Even Flashy got into the swing buying a couple of polo shirts. Lady P then marches up the street for her meeting with her personal perfume consultant and retrieves a bottle of her special Fragonard parfum and convinces Flashy to get a bottle of gentleman's scent. I think it used to be called aftershave. We meander down Avenue L'Opera to the River Seine and by now we were pretty stuffed, so a cooling beverage was called for and only just delivered before the five minute rule was about to be applied. Now hydrated, We walked to Ile Saint Louis, passing another of Paris' fine monuments, Notre Dame, still resplendent and majestic even though she was partially clad in scaffolding.
Lady P purchased a stunning necklace and earnings in a delightful artisan shop and to celebrate, we walked back over the Pont de Salle to the left bank where hundreds of thirty somethings were quietly drinking, snogging and dancing salsa. A tribal thing we guess or a Friday finish work party because it’s summer kinda thing. A champagne slowly taken while people watching is a wind down to a 20km walking day. Not finished yet. We walk to the nearest Metro and train it home for a gin and tonic, hot shower and some feet up planning for tomorrow.
Observations, unusually early for Flashy. Some things in Paris are missing from our last trip.
Off course the steaming piles of dog shit in the streets have been gone for years, but there is no rubbish or litter anywhere. Perhaps little pixies come out at midnight but well done Paris.
Missing also is the pollution, well at least this August. Perhaps it has something to do with the missing locals on summer holidays and the proliferation of electric scooters and electric bikes. Green ones, red ones, orange ones, bloody things are everywhere, zipping in and out of the traffic at terrifying speed. And missing helmets as well. Clean air. Well done Paris.
I suspect that Parisians atrocious attitude to ‘Englese’ has softened decades ago but it’s sure missing now. Lady P accosted the young and not so young, men women and boys, black white and brindled with a mix of Australian, French and mostly Franglaise only to be responded to with a smile and helpful advice – in perfect English. One kind chap even made a call on her mobile in French to leave a message about our limo no show. Friendly Parisians – well done Paris.
Other changes we noticed and perhaps because it is summer and warm, included the drinking of beer over wine. We have of course been hanging out with mostly 30 somethings and hipsters. But at bars, restaurants and on the banks of the Seine, there were people drinking pints of various European beers. And the drinkers are all dressed down considerably. Flashy had to look very carefully to spy a well dressed woman in 3 inch heels pencil designer skirt, silky sleeveless top and Dior accessories, but his powers of observation were surely tested. Perhaps it’s summer.
One final observation although we have deliberately avoided the real tourist traps, missing are the usually ubiquitous gypsies. Hooray, well done Paris.
And where are all the Parisians? Streets are deserted and we feel like we have Paris all to ourselves, Thank you Paris.
